McLeodganj, Dharamshala Trip: Travelling (Sort of) Solo
- Shreya Teresita
- Nov 2, 2023
- 3 min read
Updated: Jan 18, 2025
I took my first semi-solo trip ever to this fine little place called Dharamshala – where reality did not quite meet expectations. For those of you who may not know, Dharamshala is the second capital of Himachal Pradesh sitting right up in the mountains of the Kangra district. And, yes, it has also often been called the Little Lhasa of India.
But enough with the history lesson for now. Let’s get to the story, shall we?
Okay so, Day 1. It’s a November morning. And I wake up to the most gorgeous sunny morning I've ever seen. My happiness meter at this point is at its best. So I pack my camera and set out for a walk. The first destination on my itinerary was St John’s Church, which ideally takes less than 15 minutes to reach on foot from the McLeodganj main square. But roughly three minutes in, my perfect sunny day turned into London weather.
Half running, half tumbling, I finally reach St John’s Church of Wilderness...and boy, that place is so spectacular. Did you know that back in 1905, when a massive earthquake killed thousands in Kangra and destroyed almost every building, this church barely saw a broken bell tower? Now, in its backyard, lay the graves of many victims of this very earthquake. Also James Bruce, the 8th Earl of Elgin and Viceroy of India, was laid to rest here in 1863.
For someone who has a crippling paranoia of death and dying, I have a weird affinity toward ancient cemeteries. It's the he whole history and architecture thing.
B the time I leave the church, it’s raining buckets. All my plans of taking a slow stroll through this gorgeous cemetery, to shoot incredible montages and just engrossing myself in the beauty have gone down the drain. So I hail an auto. At this point, all my hopes and dreams are pinned on the beauty that is Dal Lake. However, I reach there and learn that the lake does not have enough water for boat rides.
In my mind, I had this idea of sitting in the boat and doing these Kashmir ki kali montages. But looking back, I think sitting by the lake by myself and just enjoying the scenic beauty was better. The whole scene of a quaint lake lined by lush trees with a backdrop of mountains was just breathtaking.
Now, the third and final stop of the day was the Naddi Hills, Sunset Point. This is where it gets most interesting.
Around 3:30-4 pm, I left Dal Lake. It's stilling raining quite heavily so I take the same auto I came in. And the driver tries his best to discourage me from going any further up the mountain. But my mind was made up. I had to see the famous sunset of the Naddi Hills.
But the sun was nowhere to be seen in the gloomy grey skies of Sunset Point.
I stand at the edge of the mountain, heartbroken. The wind is starting to pick up, and it seemed like there's no point being here anymore. So I start stuffing my camera back into its bag and head back. And as I’m walking, I hear some people screaming and cheering, so I turn.
Right at the nook of the mountains, where the sun usually goes down in a grand exit, are two giant rainbows stretching over each other. More prominent than anything I had ever seen before.
Yes, a double rainbow. The only thing reminding me that these were real was the lack of gold pots and dancing leprechauns. To this day, the memory of this sight brings a smile to my face. I thank my starts for keeping me stubborn against all odds that afternoon.
Nothing about this day went as per plan, as per my expectations. I wanted to walk around St John’s Church of Wilderness bask in the sunlight, hike across Dharamshala, ride a boat across Dal Lake, watch the sunset at Naddi’s Sunset Point. The reality was every bit the opposite. And I'm glad it was.
I guess that’s my favourite part of my semi-solo trip to Dharamshala. The reality was way more adventurous than my expectations could ever be.
Actually wait, that wasn’t my favourite part. My favourite part was when I did an impromptu food walk across McLeodganj! Or was it when I got lost in jungle in Dharamkot?
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